Foam to the horizon: 80ft waves batter the KZN Coastline
“Hey Roosta, you better get ready to reverse pal!”, was me as I saw the first real set come charging in towards us in the gloom.
It has broken up into the carparks before and this was threatening to drown us as the huge waves towered up blotting out the horizon and sending plumes of spray hundreds of feet into the air.
Luckily it’s not as big as The Tides of March swell, but it’s up there. The surge from the set turned the bay and channel into a maelstrom but never made it up the pathway. With Roosta’s Hawaii experience, it was good to guage his reaction, as a reference to that place.
“We have to surf it at this size all the time. At least two or three times a week. We surf Sunset wild and woolly just to stay in the game.” – Roosta describing the scene.
“But the thing is, that theres a hundred guys, all prepared for this type of surfing, ready and raring to go, at any time!”
“Then the real hardcore guys, they surf the outer reefs, paddling traditional style, a kilometre or more, just to get to the huge waves. We offered a guy a ride once, we were on a power boat, but he just went – ‘Nah, paddling only for me’!”
Where are the sardines? A beautiful shot by Rob Nettleton depicting an early morning sardine check, deep down in the Transkei.
Joining us at thesardine.co.za from way out there in Port St. Johns is the shark lady herself – Debbie Smith! Debbie and Rob Nettleton operate Offshore Africa in Port St. Johns, the heart of the sardine run action as sharks, dolphins, whales, seabirds, gamefish…so her finger is right on the pulse. Debbie has promised regular updates on the wily sardines this year, and if you want to be right in amongst and part of the action, check out their website and book one of the last few remaining slots available! So, where are the sardines?
Thanks Debbie, over to you…
“It’s that time of the year………people you have not heard from since this
time last year pick up the phone to ask “where are the sardines? – any sign
of them? What do you think about dates for sightings? Where is the best
place to sight them? I hear they have already arrived in Durban??? (DUH have
not heard that one).
So the frenzy time is almost upon us. Skippers from outside operations are
busy servicing their equipment, running around gathering last minute
supplies, boat crew and dive guides are rushing about getting their last
minute extra dive gear in place, preparing for the cold winter water time
and if Mother Nature even had a clue as to how much running around and
excitement is taking place, what would she say??? What would the Cape
Gannets, the Albatros, the common dolphins all say, if they could, at this
build up to sardine run time or sardine run frenzy time? Probably laugh at
all of us I would imagine………….”
Thank you Debbie! Looking forward to the next update!
Pictures and stories are hammering in as the fish around the Port Shepstone area have really come on the bite. The weekend started with guests Mike and Brian (straight out of the movie ‘Gone Fishin”) opening their account with a beautiful kob on the Friday evening, taken from the jetty at The Umzimkulu Marina. The next day Rory Lawlor on “Happy Daze” reported a brace of big-eye kingfish caught on small little rappies trolled slowly up and down the channels.
Chris Lepan fishing with Rory Lawlor, Greg Milward and Gavin Nellors on Happy Daze in the Umzimkulu yesterday.
A little later during the Saturday, as the tide started to move back in, bringing blue clean water with it, Brian was surprised by a solid bite and a huge run as his biggest big-eye kingfish made for freedom. But Brian held on and soon had the awesome fish in control. It was well hooked and after a short while we had the trace clear and the fish swam off very well educated.
That night the Mike and Brian team caught another kob, and three perch, to round off their very successful fishing trip. But the next day told the best story as Rory and crew launched into the incoming tide on Sunday. They had a fabulous time catching (all on lures) a rock salmon, three big eye kingfish and a kob! All in one trip!
Fantastic times here on the river and this whole week offers incoming tides every afternoon and fishing into the evening will promise you a fish or five!
Driving down the coast from Durban on the southern freeway is a delight. It really must be one of the most beautiful drives on the planet as it skirts the coastline and weaves through indigenous thickets and over a stream of rivers and estuaries. And then it all ends. Abruptly. Just after Port Edward. The most dangerous road in my world unfolds as a snakes and ladders affair with huge potholes vying for attention with huge trucks and busses coming the other way. Pull this all together and you survive, but one mistake can cost you dearly. Add into the equation the overpopulated roads filled with kids, adults, dogs, goats, cows, sheep, horses, donkeys and mules! And then they even got the cheek to throw cops at you, with road blocks and all!
Basically, hit two or three of those potholes properly, and you lose one or two tyres. Every time!
Advice – embrace the situation, don’t overtake or get overtaken unnecessarily, give plenty space in front of you so you have a chance to see the potholes coming, and just take it easy up and through the hills of Bizana, Flagstaff and Lusikisiki, because the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow, is just a few clicks away. The descent into the lush fruit bowl of the Wild Coast brings it altogether again as the now awesome stretch of road takes you down into the super cool town of Port St. Johns.
Port St. Johns is a most spectacular visit. There is just so much in and around that treasure trove that is the Umzimvubu River valley and it’s beaches. (c) Artsurfer.nl
There is so much to do in Port St. Johns you could get lost for weeks exploring its treasures. Leaving there south takes you basically along the coast but about 20kms inland. From this easily passable dirt road there are more dirt roads that lead to the many beaches, points and bays of the Wild Coast. Use a GPS and choose your spot. Keep heading south to find New Road that connects to Coffee Bay. In the old days we used to have to drive all the way up to Umtata and then back down to Coffee Bay, so this new connection really opens this stretch of coastline up. The GPS recognizes new road and navigates remarkably well out in the sticks.
But the road is torrid, the heaving rains washed away the dirt in between the rocks so it’s like driving on a pebble highway. Tyres get hammered and this road is where we started our troubles. We had decided to head up to Ngcwanguba Store for supplies and on the way back we got our first flat. Spare tyre out, and a speedy tyre change gets us back on the road. It’s dark, raining and 10kms from home, the next tyre goes?! No choice but to drive very slowly on the rim through the dirt, mud, puddles and dongas to our fleeting home at Mdumbi. Thank goodness for good people and the next day Warren from Cool Banana Spaza Shop at Mdumbi (they sell everything including fishing tackle), took it upon himself to drive the 50kms to Coffee Bay and repair our one reparable tyre. He was so considerate – made us breakfast and insisted that we spend the day walking to Umtata Mouth and back. We grabbed our rods and dogs and for a few hours, once again, got completely wrapped up and lost in the magic of the Kei. Thank you Warren and Noli!
The road up to Umtata…is slightly better than what you will have been accustomed to. You just get a few new ingredients to throw into the mix. The roads were not built with cambers in mind. No, they were just slapped down onto the hills willy nilly so cornering is best done very carefully. The goats and horses pose the next risk, the taxis not to be forgotten, potholes still vex…
Umtata to East London…is a pleasure, after what we have just been through. We got a new tyre in a small town on the way to Viedgesville, where we turned south again. Wide roads mean more time to avoid obstacles like cows and sheep, and the odd darting bush cat.
Having done our business in the Cape, heading home through Umtata, we left Spargs Superspar in Beacon Bay, at 11am. Except for the usual hazards, the trip was uneventful until…
30kms Outside Kokstad, a cop comes screaming up behind me, light and sirens blazing and blaring. I thought he was after me, so pulled over but he just sped on past, really fast. 2kms Further and there he is, stopping all traffic?!
A kilometer ahead are about 30 taxis, a huge crowd, a battalion of police officers. Turns out the taxi operators in the area wanted to put a stop to some impending competition, and as the luckless trio came round the bend ahead, the taxi operators opened fire with 9mm weapons and shot the three to death. Their car careened off the road and the crime scene allowed absolutely no traffic through. Either way.
After an hour, somebody in our queue researched and found a dirt track around the problem. That took an hour of sweat droplets each time we went over a sharp stone or through a pothole. The road was narrow and in places only one car at a time could navigate through. So into Kokstad for some much needed coffee and sustenance, back on the road, and safely home at 7:30pm. 2 Hours late?!
Eish! 2 Hours – the whole main road through the country is stopped in it’s tyre tracks! (c) Artsurfer.nl
