What’s happened to the Sardine News? Driving through Zimbabwe

What’s happened to the Sardine News? Driving through Zimbabwe

“Apologies for going completely missing, as we traversed the continent of Africa – East Coast to the West Coast. We have made it back into South Africa and are currently nestled in at Port Nolloth, for a day. The following blog describes our drive across Zimbabwe. Botawana and Namibia installments to follow…”

Juliusdale, near Mutare – to Harare early in the morning got us only one $10 fine. We had the wrong color reflectors on the front. White, not yellow, they are meant to be.

Police road blocks every few kilometres, but somehow our non descript VW reliably got us through the most of them. And when we were stopped, the most cordial manner was afforded us. Good morning. How are you? License please… Etc. Papers and manners in order, well on our way through.

If something is however amiss, be prepared to pay. Spot fines are the norm. Ours, a $5 for each reflector. Worse offences can get you into the hundreds of US.

Harare itself is pleasant enough. The main roads are passable and most drivers quite cordial and patient. We discovered the Tin Roof almost immediately and enjoyed a few ice colds before settling in at a friend, for a few days.

Then it was another early departure setting out for Bulawayo, and yonder. Kariba we had to miss due to a lack of water, making it impossible for our ferry to set sail.. Rain check.

Bulawayo is quite a haul from Harare but we got through before lunch and soon were headed NW to Hwange.

Yes, the famous game park Hwange. In the two sessions we were afforded, we searched less than 1% and still came through with jackals and wild dogs, or painted dogs, as they are known here. There are only 3000 odd wild dog left in Zimbabwe.

A short hop north got us right into the tourist Mecca of Vic Falls. The airport, 20kms out of town, looks like something out of Walt Disney. New and shining it really makes an impression.

Victoria Falls is all about the jol. There is no end to it. And with every kind of tourist coming through here, all sorts of advertised activities are everywhere. The more main stream stuff like Bungie jumps and slides soon give way to simple exploration and hanging out with the locals. Who are polite and we’ll spoken, eager to help. Every tourist town has them, and sometimes they can be quite annoying. But not here really. There are tourist police, who enforce a rule that only one peddler may accost one tourist at any one time.

Tourists traps are aplenty. It costs an international tourist a whole $30 to take the walk along the 1.7km chasm. But if you are south African, a quick hike across the bridge gets you into Zambia, where for $10 you get to appreciate their view of the falls. Much better option. But but for internationals as they have to pay for visas all over again… Twice! And then $20 for the park entry?!

Our sojourn here has been comfortable and easy staying at the Shoestrings Backpackers. It is a huge property in town and surrounding the main building and centre of all the action, are the flatlets and dormitories, a complete art market, a bicycle rental depot and more. Plenty safe parking and a vibey bar and restaurant seal the deal.
Check their website on http://www.shoestringsvicfalls.com/

And whilst in Zim, read the Zambezi Traveller newspaper. A tabloid sized publication, these guys cover the entire Beira Corridor – the great Zambezi valley. Supported by many tourist and other businesses in the valley, topics range from fishing, game viewing, conservation to extreme sports and activities. A nice fresh and varied read… Grab one whenever you get the chance. Full of great advice and information.
Check their website http://zambezitraveller.com
Next stop Maun!