The Roosta Files: There are no atheists in the line-up
By Roosta aka Andrew Lange; This is the first of a series of articles about how to take your surfing further, and of course, survive heavy water situations. No world domination or anything, just some tips and pointers on how to make this wave riding experience better for everyone involved,. if I’m in the water and catching all the waves, that’s no fun. I need everyone in the water to be having a good time with me so this series of instalments are for your own surfing pleasure, take what you want from them, and most of all stay stoked and keep surfing!
Roosta on a session lately.
“Just the other day I was riding an outer reef here on the South coast named after a popular berry, it was a solid, Just two of us out after a 45-minute paddle off the beach i was dry retching out the back, some call it anxiety, i call it adrenaline overload. The best thing you can do in a situation like that is swallow- it sounds simple but after a crazy paddle or beat down the last thing you want is that feeling. Oxygen levels low and all you can do is hiccup like a fish out of water. Fast forward an hour or two with 8 or 9 perfect outer reef waves under the belt i was having what i like to call a perfect session. Simple as that- when the waves are big, just dont fall, no mistakes. Simple. Except when you start getting brave and decide to share one as the biggest set of the morning approaches…”
“My Irish friend and I are flying down this huge face and as it lines up to run into the bay Irish decides to try criss-cross me when i was actually screaming for him to get going down the line! There quite simply is no room for mistakes when the waves are of consequence-and here i am at the bottom of a 10 foot foamy. behind the point still, having lost all my speed on an 8’2 while Irish puts ears back and bolts safely to the shoulder. I never even had time to react, which was probably good as this thing mowed me down with a ferocity i haven’t felt in ages. Finally, pop up, Irish is looking at me a tennis court distance away. I can feel him willing me onto my board as the next wave of the set bears down on me all white, foamy and angry and I cant react, frozen I realize last second I can actually get over this thing, clamber on board and sprint paddle up this vertical face chucking my board to the offshores both hands and legs in the water praying not to get pulled over- again Irish and I make eye contact all I can think out loud to him is if I get pulled over now it’s over… and it doesn’t, but guess what I’m vomiting bile again like a fish on deck- Duncan apologizes but I just scream: “you f…n faded me you dick! you cant do that et al” :I’ve been there before that’s why im here still!!”
Thank you to Roosta, for taking the time and riding the keyboard a while instead.
Now go surfing!
Or watch this video in this article of Roosta tackling another rarely surfed spot down south somewhere.
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